In Quest of Color

Every fall, in that window of time between late September and early October, we devote our attention to a quest to visit and gaze at trees. Trees? Yes, trees, but not the usual suspects, very special trees, the subalpine larch. The locals call this annual event the “Larch March” as it turns into a focused frenzy of activity when targeted destinations in the mountains are overtaken by seasonal hikers, while other trails are largely abandoned.

Larix lyallii, the subalpine larch (or simply alpine larch) is a deciduous, coniferous tree native to northwestern North America. The hardy tree lives at high altitudes between 4,900 and 9,500 feet on thin rocky soils, near the tree line in the Rocky Mountains of Idaho, Montana, British Columbia, and Alberta. The alpine larches that we seek in Washington’s Cascade Range are known as a disjunct population. In tree ecology that means a colony, whose geographical locus is severed from the continuous range of the bulk of the species distribution. And that disjunct population of subalpine larches is on our home turf. Okay, so why all the fuss?

The heart of the appeal is the larches are unusual among conifers because they are deciduous, meaning that they drop their needles in the fall. The fine grass-green needles grow in big bunches of 20-30 or more, emerging from pegs attached to the twig, and these needles turn a vibrant golden yellow in the fall, for only a few weeks before they drop. This creates a visual symphony that draws hikers in droves, just to be among them, gazing in awe at the stands of golden trees set against the rugged forms of high mountain peaks. And, by itself, that would be enough, but wait, there’s more. Another delightful visual opportunity for hikers seeking subalpine larches is that mountain goats live everywhere that subalpine larches do. Their snow-white forms wander about as they seek browse, water, and rocky ridge crests to simply stand silhouetted against the sky looking truly regal. And that magic combination of golden larches and meandering mountain goats is what compels us to come, year after year, like moths to a flame.

I looked forward to our time with the trees and goats, feeling giddy with anticipation, like a kid again, going on a field trip, a most sensational field trip. Only this time, we were in charge. Fortunately, we got lucky and found a window of time, and weather, in a place where we would experience little of the health-threatening wildfire smoke that has become all too common in the dry season of recent years. We decided that a day hike, like so many of our previous trips, just wouldn’t cut it. To immerse ourselves in the magic we’d need to camp out and drink red wine as the sun set over the rocky ridges. So, we packed our overnight gear and went. Here is our story.

The Trip Report (as posted on Washington Trails): October 13-14, 2022

Why do we come? The varied alpine terrain, the stunning views of Mt. Stuart, the sapphire waters of Lake Ingalls, the radiant colors of the subalpine larches in fall, and sightings of the mystifying and magnificent mountain goats? Yes, all that, and more! There’s a lot to say about this hike so, I’ll break it down.

The Road: After departing the paved Teanaway Road there are 10 miles of dirt and gravel forest road, the first half known more for the constant washboards, and the second half for the potholes. It’s narrow in places but often has room to allow an oncoming vehicle to pass. And, there are no terrifying, exposed sections. Right now, the road is in as good a shape as I have ever experienced. Any vehicle can do it. Do watch out for meandering cows and wild turkeys (I’m not kidding).

Trailhead Parking: There’s room for about 25 vehicles, but the lot fills up fast in the peak season (larch season), even mid-week. We left my house in Newcastle on Thursday at 5:45 am and arrived at 8:00 am to find the last spot in the trailhead lot. The temperature was a chilly 40 degrees. As we finalized our packing, more cars showed up, turned around, and retreated to park on the west side of the road. On our return the next day there were some spaces in the lot, due to departures, but about 200 cars had parked along the road, leaving a narrow, one-lane space to drive out. Fortunately, we met no late arrivals. Someone would have to back up.

The Larches: Since this is the big draw at this time of year, supposedly prime time, here’s what we experienced. Because of the persistent, unseasonal heat, this October many of the larches in Headlight Basin have suffered. As I wandered among them and touched them, I felt sorry for them. While some show the more robust golden colors that we expect in this season, many (at least half) have needles that appear thin and dried out. And, many have already dropped their needles. The dusty trail and languid meadow pools of Headlight Creek are littered with fallen needles. I’d say we are now just past prime time. And, even with their fading glory, the gnarly structure of many of the trees is still breathtaking. The experience of being there is simply sensational, and the jpeg processing in today’s cell phone cameras will add color saturation to your larch photos, making them appear a bit more brilliant than they are in person, under a bright mid-day sun. Verdict? Just go, but temper your expectations of the larches. And recognize that there are many other compelling reasons to visit this area.

The Goats: The goats are always mysterious, at times somewhat intrusive, and at other times quite elusive. You never know about goat encounters. Fortunately, we saw several, both singles, and in groups with young ones, as we hiked through Headlight Basin. A couple passed through our camp later that day, on their way to water in Headlight Creek. And we saw several more, some up close, and others on distant ridge crests, viewed from Lake Ingalls, their silhouettes against the sky appearing timeless and magnificent. All were dazzling white and looked robustly healthy with full fur. Perhaps they, more than the golden larches, suspend us in the pages of a fantasy world, playing the role of mythical unicorns in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Water Sources: I recommend starting with an ample water supply to stay hydrated on the trail as this hike can get hot. While in the earlier season there is often water flowing down the upper trail, a stream bed, before Ingalls Pass, now it is merely muddy in sections. The first significant water source in the dry season is Headlight Creek, which is about 4 miles and 2,300 feet of elevation gain from the trailhead. The waterfall you might expect at the head of the creek is mostly gone. What remains is a trickle of water feeding the meadow and cliffside pools, which are still a viable source to refill filter bottles. The other source is the lake, but the shallow areas are silty which complicates things.

The Weather: A 40-degree start in the shade of the morning was bracing, but the skies were clear blue, cloudless, and smoke-free. We soon warmed up and shed a layer, still in the trees and the shade. We were grateful for the cool temperatures of the morning as the trail continually gains elevation. We carried overnight gear and felt like a couple of donkeys trudging relentlessly up. As we reached the exposed sections, we hit the morning sun and a significant temperature differential. From there on we were in full sun. By the time we reached the far side of Headlight Basin, it was hot. I wished for some clouds to provide visual structure for the views, but there were none. Fortunately, there was no wind. It was quite warm at camp until the sun disappeared over the western ridge and the temperature plummeted. As chilly as we were, we were delighted that it was not as cold as we had expected. Our water did not freeze. There were only a few light breezes moving through, otherwise, the night was dead calm. At 4:00 am the sky was cloudless as the Big Dipper hovered over the western shoulder of Mt. Stuart. The scene was pure magic as the waning Gibbous Moon bathed the mountains with an ethereal light. By 5:00 am wispy clouds were streaming across the night sky, but the stars still showed brightly. We woke at 7:00 am to a brilliantly sunny day, which heated up quickly. A warm, clear day without wind made our side trips to Lake Ingalls quite pleasant, but the hike out was quite toasty, and the last miles were somewhat tedious.

Air Quality: We experienced little wildfire smoke as the skies were mostly clear. We did note what looked like smoke to the east, down in the valleys, during the sunrise on Friday. We used several online wildfire maps to plan our trip, and photos from WTA trip reports from Monday and Tuesday showed clear skies. Those sources confirmed our decision to make the trip.

The Trail: At this time of year the keyword is dusty. The trail starts in a sparely wooded forest which provides an open, expansive feeling with views of nearby Esmeralda Peak. The forest floor is host to wild grasses with amazing colors. Though I have seen deer in this section, I saw none on this trip. This section is powdered dirt with rocks and roots. Breaking out into the long traverses one encounters a narrow, sometimes sloping, and sluffing trail with exposure to loose rock slopes. Now, it’s mostly dust and rocks under the full sun. Approaching the pass, switchbacks resume and the trail becomes steeper and rockier, and at one point an ascent up a wet streambed. At the pass, one is confronted with a choice, take the main trail 1390.1 (the more obvious trail) or the alternate trail 1390.2. The main trail arcs across a talus field that provides expansive views toward Mt. Stuart and to the stands of larches below. After the talus, the trail meanders through a stand of larches and other conifers, eventually crossing Headlight Creek and continuing back into a boulder field and a rocky trail that traverses to the scramble up to the lake. The 1390.1 trail travels a longer distance to the lake but with less elevation loss. 1390.2 drops quickly from the pass and travels through the stands of trees below Headlight Basin. The two trails meet up before the traverse to the final scramble. The scramble has several variations, all of which work. The route from the creek to the lake is mostly a well-defined trail but with a few route-finding challenges. If you’re hiking through huge boulders, you have missed a connection and are likely too low. If in doubt, it may be helpful to walk to a rocky viewpoint before the creek to look across for the trail, which is clearly visible.

Overnight Camping: We took the main trail, 1390.1, through the talus field and down into Headlight Basin where we found a nice site near Headlight Creek and the trail to the outdoor toilet. There were several (four to five) good options to choose from and most could accommodate two backpacking tents. I was both surprised and gratified as I had hiked this trail six times in recent years and this was my first overnight since my twenties when we camped at the lake, in a time before the current restrictions. This time we pitched our tents on a rocky shoulder overlooking Mt. Stuart and settled in to savor the beauty of the wild place. There are also more campsites along the alternate trail 1390.2. The benefit of hauling our overnight gear up to camp was the freedom to take more time to explore and experience the first day elapsing into the next, and the opportunity to watch the sunset, the starry night, and the next day’s sunrise.

This hike is sensational because it features both Lake Ingalls and Headlight Basin, which I think is the best part. The varied terrain, subalpine larches and conifers, mountain goats, and soaring birds of prey all contribute to a deep experience of visual texture, both in the long views and a close inspection of the microenvironment.

I took six virtual reality spherical panoramic photos of Mt. Stuart, four from our camp in Headlight Basin during the afternoon, the sunset, the starry night sky, and the sunrise. They are variations on a theme and provide a cool immersive experience of the environment, so check them out. We then hiked from our camp to Lake Ingalls and I took two more. You can view each in a pano viewer at my portfolio at 360cities.net. Be sure to click the full-screen icon as you roll over the upper right of the photo for the best viewing.

Afternoon with Mt. Stuart, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, WA State: https://www.360cities.net/image/afternoon-with-mt-stuart-alpine-lakes-wilderness-wa-state

Sunset on Mt. Stuart, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, WA State: https://www.360cities.net/image/sunset-on-mt-stuart-alpine-lakes-wilderness-wa-state

Moonlight over Mt. Stuart, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, WA State: https://www.360cities.net/image/moonlight-over-mt-stuart-alpine-lakes-wilderness-wa-state

Sunrise with Mt. Stuart, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, WA State: https://www.360cities.net/image/sunrise-with-mt-stuart-alpine-lakes-wilderness-wa-state

Mt. Stuart from Ingalls Lake, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, WA State: https://www.360cities.net/image/mt-stuart-from-ingalls-lake-alpine-lakes-wilderness-wa-state

Ingalls Peak from Ingalls Lake, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, WA State: https://www.360cities.net/image/ingalls-peak-from-ingalls-lake-alpine-lakes-wilderness-wa-state