Somehow, back in August of 2013, I started writing trip reports for the Washington Trails Association website. My first account was of a hike to Kendall Katwalk with a friend and his dog, on a semi-foggy day. I just completed and posted trip report number 178, a narrative of my recent hike up to the historic Granite Mountain fire lookout, on a semi-foggy day. It was my fifteenth time at the lookout out of eighteen attempts, foiled at various places before the lookout on three prior occasions by rain and snow conditions. I had not been back for two years, and though I knew it well, I felt compelled to return. Why, my friends might ask. Haven't you done it enough? Well, no.
You
see, there is a good reason. In a few weeks, I’ll be hiking up to the historic fire lookout on Desolation
Peak. It’s remote, with challenging approach logistics, and the day will entail
hiking 11.5 miles overall, round-trip, with almost 5,000 feet of elevation gain. If
I were in my 30’s and carrying a light daypack, the hike would be no big deal. Now in my late 70’s, and carrying a 20-pound pack with heavy photo gear, it
will likely be a grinder.
The
objective is to hike up to the lookout and document the
place by taking several spherical panoramas outside the lookout, and one interior,
if possible. After all, it’s the 70th anniversary of Jack
Kerouac’s 63-day stint as a fire spotter at the lookout. And, that’s as good a
reason as any to make the pilgrimage. We’ll likely get one shot at this since
it’s a somewhat complicated endeavor for a day hike. We’ll tent camp at a
campground near Ross Lake, drive to the trailhead parking lot, hike one mile
down to the boat dock, take an early morning water taxi 18 miles up the lake to
the Desolation Peak trailhead, hike to the lookout, hang out, and then hike back down
to the dock for the late-day water taxi back to the final trail out.
So, it makes sense that I’d train for this hike. And, I’ve been doing that with progressively more strenuous early-season hikes, which have recently led to Granite Mountain. Though not as long or with as much elevation gain as Desolation, it is close enough to serve as a proxy, a comparative hike where I can gauge my relative physical readiness for the big one. And, it is close enough to where I live to readily tackle with no more than a 45-minute drive to the trailhead. So, I went.
As I made my way up the familiar trail, I thought about what I might say in my post-hike trip report. As I observe the wild surroundings, I now habitually make mental notes as if I am already composing my trip report. As I hiked, it seemed to me that if I wanted to create anything of value, I had two audiences and needed to speak to each of them in turn. The first would be those who have hiked to the lookout before and just want the beta on current conditions. The second would be those first-timers who want to know what to expect and if they should do it at all. What could I say about a trail that I knew so well? I’d want to make my story engaging and informational while keeping it relatively concise, as neither group would want me rambling on without purpose.
Of the many things I did not mention, one of the funniest was the head-down hiker beginning the ascent of the last steep section as I was descending. As I passed, he looked up at me, smiled, and said, “Piece of cake. I wish it were harder.” He wore a silly grin. I replied, “Yeah, right.” Of course, he was being facetious. Or was he? I did not specifically mention the flavorful joy of snacking on Oberto Teriyaki Beef Jerky as I leisurely sat at the lookout, admiring the distant Mount Rainier, dominant on the gray horizon. I also left out my encounters with off-leash dogs (which are prohibited), including my first sighting of an off-leash lap dog. I had to laugh. They’re usually big dogs. I did not mention the content of conversations and stories shared with many hikers I met during my hike down. Even while I attempt to make my trip reports engaging and fun to read, there really is a limit.
I resolved that challenge by giving repeat hikers a brief update on conditions, followed by a more detailed description of the hiking terrain and my experience, section by section, for the first timers. Since the day was dank and gray, I added links to two spherical panoramas that I had previously taken when the weather was spectacular. I later concluded this might be a good template for future reports. Here is mye trip report.
Granite
Mountain Trip Report: June 25, 2026
Nuts
and Bolts:
There is no longer any snow on the mountain. Wildflowers are out and abundant except for Beargrass, where there are only occasional blossoms. Maybe no Beargrass super bloom on Granite Mountain this year? Bugs are emerging. There are a few remaining uncleared deadfalls, all of which can be easily stepped over. The trail is in good shape overall except for moderate erosion in a few sections. Oh, and no bear sightings.
Extemporaneous
Narrative:
I
hiked to the lookout on a cooler, overcast day after several hot days. I’m glad
that I did. I arrived at the trailhead lot and set off just before 7:00 am. The
early morning light did little to warm up the trailside environment. Colors
were muted, and the scene felt a bit tired, as if still asleep. Having hiked
this trail many times before, I knew that the views would only improve.
For
those who have not been before, know that the first mile to the Pratt Lake
connector is a relatively easy stroll on a moderately rocky trail, only gaining
about 600 feet. The second mile is where Granite throws down the gauntlet.
Things get steeper and progressively rockier as the trail switchbacks up the
mountain. This is where you might well ask yourself why you are even doing this
and if it will all be worth it. It will be.
I enjoyed the cooler climate of the morning, but even 60 degrees felt quite warm as I labored up the trail. I reminded myself that this is not a footrace and to slow down and immerse myself in the present moment. For that is where most of the wonder lies. The trail is a cornucopia of physical and visual texture that is ever-changing throughout the seasons. Since I hiked alone, I could easily abandon myself to this quest.
About halfway up, the trail breaks out to open alpine meadows and circuitously climbs toward the Granite Mountain Lookout ridge. Here again, the trail is a convoluted, rocky path, but athletically enjoyable. After crossing the nearly dry outlet from the upper tarns, the trail thrusts up the ridgeline. The path here becomes a bit braided. It eventually connects with an ascending traverse that takes you north past the massive piles of granite blocks to the summer route. After crossing a flat section of trail on the east side of the ridgeline, the final steeper and rockier section to the lookout begins. It is here that you’ll keenly feel your fatigue and frustration as every switchback feels like it should be the last, but isn’t. I knew this and thus could better cope with my frustration.
I finally
arrived at the lookout a bit after 10:00 am and had the summit all to myself. I
settled in on my favorite rock, threw on a windbreaker, and broke out the trail
treats I would seldom eat at home. Nirvana! Surprisingly, even though overcast,
the skies were clear enough to see many distant peaks, among them Mount Rainier
to the south and Kaleetan and Chair Peak to the north. I settled in and soaked
up the views in quiet contemplation. After 20 minutes alone, the persistent chill
breeze suggested departure, and I complied.
The hike back down was fun in a different way. I encountered a large group of women hikers setting up to take a group photo on the large boulder at the tarns. I arrived and offered to take it so they could all be in it. They loved it. Serendipity. And, many other upcoming hikers paused and engaged me in conversation, perhaps as a means of resting during their arduous ascent. I could not say, but I enjoyed them all.
Granite
Mountain is one of my favorite hikes, and I keep coming back for more. Why?
It’s close to where I live. Only a short, paved road to the trailhead. A
well-defined trail with no super steep scrambling or terrifying exposure. Exciting
in the early spring on the snowy ridge to the lookout. Prolific with wildflowers
during the approach to summer. And, resplendent with red and ochre hues in the
fall. Stunning summit views. Easily doable as a day hike. Two caveats: One: The
near constant sound of the river of steel, the cars, and long-haul trucks that
race back and forth on the I-90 corridor. However, the annoying noise
eventually abates as you get higher. Two: No matter how fit you are, this trail
will kick your butt. It is an uncompromising litmus test of your mountain
fitness. So, deal with it.
Bonus
Materials:
I have taken several spherical panoramas at or near the lookout over the last several years. You can view two of them by clicking on the links below. For the most immersive experience, launch the image and locate the menu bar in the upper right of the image. Click ‘Toggle Fullscreen’ and scroll around, up and down.
Granite
Mountain, Fire Lookout Cabin, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington State
Granite
Mountain, Summit Friends, Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington State
