Thursday, October 28, 2021

Mountain Money

Young, sturdy, and ruggedly handsome, he was an artist who used a chainsaw to roughly carve out his subjects and then finish them with smaller tools. Surprisingly, he had a deft hand and an outstanding sense of proportion, details, and even movement. He was a consummate sculptor, easily able to see the creature within, waiting to be revealed through the artistry of his efforts. His carvings were notable and sublime.

Perusing them, I encountered a graceful river otter. He seemed so friendly. I knew in a moment that he wanted to come home with me. We bartered, and I traded an Early Winters Omnipotent to the young chainsaw artist for the otter. We called barter ‘mountain money’ and liked using it when we had the opportunity as the transactions were usually so much more personable and memorable. And after all, we could always sew up another tent, but there would never be another otter as distinctive as the one I saw that day.

The otter sat on my lap as torrents of snow brushed past the windows in the dark of night, in a swirling storm high above the San Francisco Bay. The little Cessna bumped up and down in the turbulence. Z-man sat up front next to Jay, our pilot, while Diane and I sat huddled close together in the tapered back seat. I held the otter tight. He was no problem really, quiet and still through all the commotion and concern caused by the weather. Just under three feet tall, carved from the trunk of a cedar tree, he did not seem disturbed. 

The weather, which had been so fair, rapidly deteriorated. As darkness descended, we four sat high above northern California in the little Cessna, buffeted by a fierce storm, ice forming on the wings and the fuel gauge alerting Jay to an impending situation. We had zero visibility and were leaking fuel over Northern California.

Diane and I looked at each other, held hands, and tried to stay calm. We found it difficult to be either optimistic or terrified, but our experience in the unknown was definitely on the dark side of the spectrum. Only the thin aluminum skin of the aircraft separated us from the turbulent elements. I thought about death in the abstract for quite a while. The wet blackness, with torrents of rain streaming across the small windows, punctuated with only the blinking wing lights, made it seem a near possibility. I did know that I was not ready for it.

Fortunately, Jay, with whom we had flown before, was a well-experienced, intelligent, and decisive pilot. He expertly analyzed the rate of fuel loss and made plans to touch down at the nearest opportunity, the Humboldt County Airport, on the redwood coast just north of Eureka. Obsessively focused on the tiny instruments on the panel before him, Jay knew that he was the primary instrument of all our fates. As we flew forward through the unrelenting wet darkness, he did not speak, and we did not ask.

This is an excerpt from ‘Mountain Money,’ an adventure story from my recently released memoir, Banquet of the Infinite, which is now available as an eBook on Amazon, Barnes & Noble, and Kobo.

Monday, October 11, 2021

Flying to Rivendell

Once we included Mike Schonhofen’s new internal X frame panel-loading packs in our Early Winters direct mail catalog, the sales ramped up so fast we couldn’t keep up with the orders. More accurately, Mike couldn’t keep up with the pack orders. He was still sewing them all himself in his tiny little shop in the U District up on University Way, and even though he worked long hours, there was simply a limit.

Nicolai had used Mike’s pack on our 1976 Ptarmigan Traverse, where we field-tested our first and the world’s first Gore-Tex fabric mountain shell garments. And that pack, having proven itself to us in the inclement weather of that difficult trip, was added to our product assortment. We featured the Schonhofen Design panel-loading packs in our 1977 mail order catalog, and in short order, with a big assist from our customers, created our little inventory problem.

Mike knew that I’d come knocking to talk about our mutual problem. He wasn’t happy about the situation either, but we had to work it out and agreed to meet at a University Way coffee shop. Over eggs and bacon, I suggested that the expedient and perhaps ideal solution would be to find another small shop that made packs with similar weight fabrics and with similar sewing machines, a shop with some excess capacity that might welcome some additional production work. That way Mike wouldn’t have to ramp up with a bigger shop and more sewing machines.

Mike listened thoughtfully and, without hesitation, concurred. The only such shop that came to my mind was Rivendell Mountain Works. Rivendell made the Bomb Shelter Tent and the Jensen Pack, a climber’s pack made with the same Cordura fabric that Mike used. That Rivendell was already a well-respected outdoor company helped Mike agree to the concept. I made a cold call to Larry Horton, the owner of Rivendell.

Fortunately, Larry was interested, so we verbally outlined the basic plan and agreement. I booked our flight to Rivendell. It was no ordinary flight. We regarded Jay Kelly as our designated freelance small aircraft pilot for light and fast Early Winters flight missions. I hired him and his Cessna 210 for the journey from Boeing Field to the tiny airfield at Driggs, Idaho. Mike and I joined Jay, with a fourth passenger, a 60” wide bolt of forest green Cordura pack cloth, and we lifted off from Boeing Field and headed east towards the Tetons.

Our feelings on the flight ranged from a measured calm to giddy anticipation. We looked forward to the potential for success in the pack contracting venture. And hoped for the chance to see the magnificent Tetons from a small plane. We planned to fly close to the jagged snow-covered peaks. That would come later after we talked shop.

We landed at the rural airport in Driggs, Idaho, where Larry waited for us with his red Honda Civic. Greeting us warmly, Larry helped us struggle the big bolt of nylon Cordura cloth into his tiny car. Mike and I both noticed the interior of the Civic.  The seats were covered, reupholstered with the same burnt orange corduroy fabric that Larry used on the body-facing side of his Jensen Packs. Very distinctive.

We expected that Larry would drive us straight from Driggs to Victor, Idaho, and the Rivendell Mountain Works factory. Larry sped away from the airfield and then, several miles later, suddenly lurched to the side of the road and stopped. He opened his door and, without a word, jogged into what looked like barren farmland.

Mike and I sat and looked at each other dumbfounded as Larry squatted down and began digging in the dirt. Completely perplexed, we both began having serious doubts about the whole endeavor. Without a sound, his digging produced some brown objects that he gently cradled in his hands as he made his way back to the car. They were farm-fresh Idaho potatoes, handpicked for our dinner. We breathed a sigh of relief.

On the way to the shop, Larry made another stop. He headed over to his house to drop off the potatoes, and as we pulled into the driveway, an attractive, athletic blonde-haired young woman was tossing a pair of skis, Larry’s skis, from her car into the front yard.

Our first encounter with Betty, Larry’s live-in girlfriend, perplexed us both. She barely acknowledged us as she turned, whipped open the door to her car, got in, slammed it shut, and peeled out of the driveway. She was angry about something, but it didn’t seem to impact Larry. He seemed completely unperturbed.

After that incident, we finally arrived at Rivendell Mountain Works, world headquarters, housed in a small, repurposed white wood-frame structure that had once been a country church. It no longer sported a tall narrow steeple, just a modest front portico that welcomed us. The pews were long gone, now replaced by a long cutting table and two aisles, each flanked with an array of specialty industrial sewing machines. Completed Jensen Packs hung on the back wall where the altar and religious artifacts once lived.

With five windows along each side of the building and a dozen lamps hanging over the workspace, it was a well-lit and cheerful space. We liked it immediately. Larry introduced us both to his head seamstress, and we all gathered at the cutting table as Mike unfurled his tag board pack patterns. A focused discussion of construction steps and methods commenced.

Meanwhile, Jay was making some extra money at the Driggs airfield. After getting checked out on the local tow plane, he spent the better part of the day towing local glider pilots aloft.

Our production work at Rivendell Mountain Works continued. The plan was that Larry would send sewn samples for our approval and then commence production. After our work session, we rejoined Jay to fly high in the Cessna and take an up-close and intimate aerial tour of the Teton range. 

The afternoon sun glinted off both the snowy Teton peaks and the steady wings of the small white aircraft. The weather was calm and accommodating, which allowed us to skim near the shimmering white forms. Partially cloaked in snow and ice, the sharp granite peaks dramatically pierced the cloudless cerulean sky. They appeared mythic and magnificent. Jay flew closer, so close we could almost touch them. Breathless, I imagined myself climbing them.

Little did I know that sometime soon, Larry and I would climb the Grand Teton by one of its most famous routes. But that was yet to come, beyond the present moment, but definitely on the horizon.

This is an excerpt from ‘Flying to Rivendell,’ an adventure story from my recently released memoir, Banquet of the Infinite, which is now available as an eBook on Amazon, Barnes & Noble, and Kobo.

Saturday, October 2, 2021

Larch Quest

Tree Island, Headlight Basin, Heather Maple Pass, Blue Lake, Goat Peak, and other discrete mountain venues draw us like moths to a flame, just to walk among them and feast on their cinematic displays of color. It’s a ritual, a pilgrimage, and often too crowded with ogling hikers, but it’s still worth making the trips. It’s all about the Larches, the western Larch (Larix occidentalis), which grow up to 170 feet high on north-facing slopes between 2,000 and 5,500 feet in elevation, and the lovely subalpine Larch (Larix lyallii), growing up to 70 feet high, typically in cold snowy conditions on bedrock or talus outcroppings between 5,800 and 7,500 feet in elevation.

The yellow-green needles of spring give way to a breathtaking yellow-amber in the fall, late September, and early October, before their needles fall. The bare branches of winter define the ‘deciduous conifers’ and enable them to survive. The temperatures where larches grow get too cold for winter photosynthesis so the trees protect themselves, saving resources by not producing needles in that season. Additionally, the bare trees are more resistant to defoliating insects and wildfires.

The green color of chlorophyll masks the other colors in the Larch needles and the brilliant yellows only show when the chlorophyll is drawn into the tree with the dropping temperatures. This produces the ‘big show,’ the stands of subalpine trees flashing in the sun, and draws a plethora of hikers on the annual ‘Larch march’ just to be a part of the ephemeral event in the brief window of time before the needles fall amidst the incoming snows.

I try to be among them when I can, often mid-week and early for a bit more solitude. Everyone has their favorite places and I haven’t seen them all. But over the years have been lucky enough to be a witness to their breathtaking beauty. Here are some of those moments.

Tree Island: It’s the informal name of a granite outcropping that hosts a stand of subalpine Larches partway up the arduous trail to Aasgard Pass, an arduous gateway. In my opinion, the trail up Aasgard is more than a grueling ascent to the Enchantment Lakes Basin, it is one of the most beautiful parts of the whole journey. Yes, it is strenuous with meandering paths and loose rocks where you’ll find yourself head down navigating relentlessly upward. But if you stop frequently and look up and around, and you really must, you’ll find that it is heartbreakingly beautiful. In fact, despite the drudgery of the ascent, it is my favorite part of the journey. The daunting, sharp form of Dragontail Peak provides a visual backdrop for the fragile Larches, that when wearing their fall mantle of yellow-gold, stop you in your tracks.

Headlight Basin: We had hiked the Lake Ingalls Trail to experience the golden larches in Headlight Basin. Having been to the lake before, it was not our objective. The larches were the big show. We hiked to Headlight Creek, took photos from several vantage points, and hiked out. Since we encountered snow, the scenes were strikingly beautiful, even with the overcast skies. The mantle of white added an extra visual dimension to an otherwise dry landscape and helped showcase the Larches. As we walked amongst them, we reached out to touch. Their needles were feather soft and we felt lucky to be in that moment.

I took three virtual reality spherical panoramic photos of the larches at Headlight Creek and on a rock in Headlight Basin. They are variations on a theme and provide a cool immersive experience of the subalpine Larches. They can be viewed at these links at 360cities.net. Be sure to click the full-screen icon as you roll over the upper right of the photo for best viewing.

Trailside Larches by Headlight Creek: https://www.360cities.net/image/trailside-larches-by-headlight-creek-alpine-lakes-wilderness-wa-state

Alpine Larches from Headlight Creek: https://www.360cities.net/image/alpine-larches-from-headlight-creek-alpine-lakes-wilderness-wa-state

Golden Alpine Larches in Headlight Basin: https://www.360cities.net/image/golden-alpine-larches-in-headlight-basin-alpine-lakes-wilderness-wa-state

Heather Maple Pass: This hike is pure magic! We left the Rainy Pass parking lot trailhead at 10 am and started up the trail clockwise. It is not that steep and breaks out to views fairly quickly, after a thousand or so feet of elevation gain. And then, the views are dramatic and the fall colors brilliant. The huckleberries are on fire. As you approach the final switchbacks up to the pass there is an expansive panorama of golden larches and every few steps, I just stopped with my mouth open. We paused for lunch and more photos at the pass and headed down over Heather Pass and back to the trailhead. It was a banner day in the mountains with wisps of clouds, fair temperatures, and no wind or bugs. Larches were happening and would probably improve into next week. As we descended, we passed what seemed like hordes of hikers coming up the counter-clockwise route. It happens this time of year.

I took two virtual reality spherical panoramic photos of the larches on the Maple Pass Trail on the way to the pass. They provide a cool immersive experience of the trailside subalpine Larches, so check them out. Here is the link to view them in a pano viewer at 360cities.net. Be sure to click the full-screen icon as you roll over the upper right of the photo for best viewing.

Trailside Larches, Maple Pass Trail: https://www.360cities.net/image/trailside-larches-maple-pass-trail-north-cascades-wa-state

Alpine Larches, Maple Pass Trail: https://www.360cities.net/image/alpine-larches-maple-pass-trail-north-cascades-wa-state

Blue Lake: We left the parking lot at 9:20 am and started up the trail. It was very chilly. The trail parallels the highway for a while before switch backing up towards the lake. Leaving the lower wooded section there is an expansive panorama of golden Larches and every few steps I just stopped in awe. The scenery is that good! At about 6,000 feet the scattered snow now covered the trail completely and there was snow all the way to the lake. We hiked up a knoll on the west side of the lake, the further to explore a hidden tarn, and then hiked up the east side ridge for more views. We took our time and photographed the magical snowy scene as more snow began to fall. The gnarly trees were absolutely stunning against the views to Liberty Bell and Early Winters Spires.

I took a virtual reality spherical panoramic photo. It provides a cool immersive experience of the snowy views from the side of Blue Lake. Here is the link to view them in a pano viewer at 360cities.net. Be sure to click the full-screen icon as you roll over the upper right of the photo for best viewing.

Blue Lake, West Side Vista: https://www.360cities.net/image/blue-lake-west-side-vista-okanogan-wenatchee-national-forest-wa-state


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