The Winter Route

While there are several ways to the top, most of us focus on two, ‘The Winter Route’ and ‘The Summer Route.’ Of course, there are variations of each, but the main thrust is that once the snow has consolidated, sometime in the late spring, and the avalanche chutes no longer pose life-threatening danger, we have a window in time when we can ascend the ridgeline to the lookout on snow, ‘The Winter Route.’ And that’s fun. Big fun, if you like toting an ice axe and kicking steps, with or without spikes, depending.

Yes, I’m talking about the hike up to the Granite Mountain Lookout. It’s an all-season hike, except when the snow makes for prime avalanche conditions. Even with the snow at the higher elevations, it’s beautiful in the spring and summer, festooned with blooming bear grass and other wildflowers on the approach. And in the fall, the abundant mountain ash and huckleberries provide truly spectacular colors. Unfortunately, no subalpine larches are turning brilliant gold in late September / early October but the alpine meadows are rich with stunning hues of reds, oranges, and golden ochres in the late season.

The last time I ascended the ridge crest was on the 3rd of June, 2020, hiking solo. Starting at 7:30 am, the crisp morning chilled me. But soon after the first mile, I peeled off a layer since I always find it impossible not to work up a sweat in the forested section after the Pratt Lake Trail junction. It’s where the trail quickly steepens, rapidly gaining elevation over ever more boulder-strewn terrain. The trail was in good shape with negligible mud. After emerging from the verdant forest, the beautiful day featured mostly blue skies, with only the wispiest of drifting clouds, all the way from the upper meadows to the historic fire lookout.

I encountered snowfields at 4,700 feet around 9:30 am, and the last 1,000 vertical feet were entirely on snow. The snow was soft enough that microspikes were not required (I had them in my pack just in case). My poles were useful for stability on the less steep slopes but I switched to my ice axe for the ascent of the steep ridgeline and was happy with that decision. I was also wearing stiff-soled mountaineering boots which were very helpful in kicking steps on the way up and plunge stepping on the way down. Mountain boots and an ice axe provided me with a sense of confidence and security.

While there was a path in the snow, it was days old and I kicked my steps. The upper ridge featured a prominent cornice on the upper section before the lookout. I took note and avoided venturing too close to the edge. As snowmelt had begun, there was a cleft between the upper snow slopes and the granite boulders in several places along the upper ridgeline. They were sharply undercut and required cautious attention so as not to punch through to the granite boulders below.

There would be more melting in the days ahead and while I could ascend the entire ridgeline to the lookout on snow today, that would soon become impossible as the snow melted out. The ridgeline route would then become a combination of rock scrambling and snow travel. And that combination would be far less fun. I knew because I had done it in years past.

That day in early June was simply pure magic! And even though we were amid a pandemic, I hiked early and only encountered 3 people descending as I ascended and I had the lookout all to myself for a leisurely snack before heading down. As I descended, I soon passed others on their way to the top. All were smiling. It’s that kind of place.

Once the snow has departed, it’s much easier to access the lookout by traversing a high meadow below the summit ridge and ascending a rocky trail from the north. The last switchbacks up the rocky path are steep, and it’s always a relief when the lookout comes into sight. The cabin is rarely open, and I have only been in it once during maintenance work by the rangers. Open or not, it is an amazing piece of history and a wonderful place to sit and snack and enjoy the views.

For panoramic views without the snow, I invite you to look at my spherical panoramas. I have taken seven at the historic Granite Mountain fire lookout. All have vistas of the nearby peaks. The links below feature two examples that can be viewed at 360cities.net. Others may be accessed by scrolling below each image and clicking on the ‘Nearby’ tab. Be sure to click the full-screen icon as you roll over the upper right of the photo for best viewing. 

Granite Mountain Fire Lookout Cabin: https://www.360cities.net/image/granite-mountain-fire-lookout-cabin-alpine-lakes-wilderness-washington-state

Granite Mountain Cirrus Clouds: https://www.360cities.net/image/granite-mountain-cirrus-clouds-alpine-lakes-wilderness-washington-state