Yikes! Not
being ‘with it’ in any sense, I just stumbled on to this curious collaboration.
Actually, a breakthrough in co-branding with two unlikely partners, or so I
thought. At first, I thought it was a joke, a complete send-up, but no, it’s
for real. Seriously.
My first
encounter with outdoor-chic was witnessing lugged soled hiking boots making their
way from concrete sidewalks into the University Bookstore and nearby LP record
shops. Known then as ‘waffle stompers,’ they seemed a good accessory for
patched blue jeans. They certainly didn’t see any mountain trails as our campus
in central Illinois was flat as a pancake. And so, those stiff leather boots
were more of a lifestyle statement than anything else.
Some years hence, post-university, we used to joke about ‘Patagucci,’ I mean Patagonia, having achieved cult status with the urban crowd. It seemed every third guy at the local grocery store wore some color of their nylon-shelled, ‘bomber styled,’ zippered fleece jacket. And later, The North Face oversized puffy jackets appeared, suddenly popular, on the streets of New York, with would-be rappers. Down mountain gear proliferated amongst the concrete walls of the city. I found it a most curious phenomenon and wondered why.
The recent The North Face x Gucci collection takes that concept several levels beyond, as Italian runway designers have adapted outdoor silhouettes to showcase their virtuosity with color, texture, and pattern. I kind of admire the cheeky panache of the assortment, a fashion design student fantasy project gone wild, and yet, made real, completely jaw-dropping both in its inventive visual creativity and prices. It seems to me that functionality takes a far backseat to the celebration of the brand, as the creative objective is not to provide performance in the mountains but to create, in the target customer, a palpable sense of desire to acquire and make a statement about one’s self.
As a former architect, and later a designer and developer of outdoor gear and apparel, I was always interested in the relationship between form and function. For me, the function was the beginning and always drove form. The evolution of form, with a pleasing aesthetic, driven primarily as a result of achieving the requisite function for the task ahead was the design imperative. Of course, this collection has little to do with the mountains except in an abstract conceptual sense and is thus free to focus on the exploration of pattern, color, and commerce. And what fun it must be to indulge in ‘celebrating the spirit of exploration’ (as the North Face website pronounces) with exuberant, whimsical designs. The beauty of it is that what comes next is only bounded by limitations of the creative imagination as little function needs to be served.
British Vogue editors penned a feature in January of 2021 and unequivocally stated their approval: “The North Face x Gucci has landed and everyone wants a slice of the technical outerwear energised by bold blooms, eye-watering colourways, and cult branding. The Vogue editors bagged a preview of the peppy puffers before they hit the rails of Selfridges, where the collection is available to purchase via virtual appointments from now until 31 January. The verdict? The cheering coats are a breath of fresh air. We’re buying in.” They further declared the collection “a breezy take on explorer-chic.”
Oversized cotton logo t-shirts range from $540 to $650, and the latest TNFG forest print tee is offered at $850. Their vintage ‘70s style mountain boots go for $1,490 and a new floral print down jacket for $3,600. Other items have commanded even higher prices. Curiously, they offer The North Face x Gucci floral print silk dress, with ruffles at the neck and cuffs. Yours for $4,500, sold in-store only. And while that may seem just right for the urban fashionista, the collection misses serving the needs of the true alpine enthusiast. And it doesn’t care. So, it’s highly unlikely we’re going to run into any of this apparel high in the North Cascades, Sierra, or Tetons. But, perhaps in the mountains of Manhattan and the Hollywood hills. Yes, definitely!
While I
imagine that some at The North Face are probably suitably embarrassed by this
whole co-branding adventure, there will be others elsewhere that will be envious
of the collaboration, and subsequent brand notoriety, and wonder, “Why not us?”
So, what’s next? Carhartt x Burberry, or perhaps the ne plus ultra of up-and-coming
outdoor co-branding ventures will be Arcteryx x Armani. Yes, it’s probably
already in the works. But they better hurry. It’s now a catch-up ball game.